Quetzaltenango offers top-notch hotels, restaurants and Spanish schools. Althounghit is Guatemala’s second largest city it retains the small-town charm and friendly hospitality that is characteristic of the highlands. Quetzaltenango`s name, which means “the place of the quetzals,” was bestowed by Mexican soldiers who accompanied Spaniards in the conquest. The town’s original name of Xelajù, or simply “Xela,”is still commonly used in Guatemala.

Quetzaltenango lies in a fertile valley at 2330 m. (7645 ft) above sea-level. While the days are comfortably warm, nights are chilly, with temperatures frequently dropping to near freezing. The town’s oldest area, around the central plaza or Parque CentroAmèrica, features narrow, cobblestone streets and graceful architecture. A number of cafés, pubs, restaurants and discos are found near the lovely municipal Theater, recently restored and offering a wide variety of cultural performances. Many visitors stay for several weeks to study Spanish schools. As in Antigua, schools use the “total immersion” language method, with one-on-one instruction and lodging with a local family.

Quetzaltenango is a convenient base form which to explore nearby towns and natural areas. Zunil, a half-hour’s drive away, is a Maya Quichè village where the local cult of Maximòn is practiced. The Fuentes Georginas hot spring near Zunil offers rustic cabins for hot water. At Salcajà, just outside Xela, stands the first church built by the Spaniards in Guatemala. Hiking in the mountains around Xela is a popular activity, and some visitors may want to climb Santa Maria Volcano, for breathtaking views of Xela, the Pacific coast and Santiaguito, an active volcano on Santa Maria’s southern flank. An easy day hike from the nearby town of San Martìn Sacatipèquez also known as Chile Verde leads to a crater lake atop Chicabal Volcano, a sacred sport for the Maya who live nearby.